* Gendarmenmarkt *

* Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt *

* Rotes Rathaus *



The first Glühwein of the season is always magical. This time around we headed down to the classical Gendarmenmarkt in the early afternoon (daytime drinking, the best trick to avoid the crowds) and were just in time to get a delicious cup and see the children's choir.

Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt

In this Scandinavian Christmas market we made the terrible mistake of going for Glühwein first, and then realizing that there was not only Glühwein (German), but also Glögg (Swedish),  Glögi (Finnish), and Gløgg (Norwegian). We'll have to wait until next year to try those!

Rotes Rathaus Weihnachtsmarkt

By the city hall there was a Christmas market with bright lights, a cute but overpopulated skating rink, and delicious odours of Christmas food wafting around. By the end of this season I had delightfully indulged in:

  • Kartoffelpuffer mit Apfelmus (fried potato patties with apple sauce)
  • Quarkbällchen (fried quark dough, similar to donuts)
  • Geröstete Maronen / Maroni (roasted chestnuts)
  • Gebrannte Mandeln (roasted + caramelized almonds)

Missing Kaiserschmarrn, but is it really worth it to get Kaiserschmarrn outside of Austria? To be determined...

Happily content,


Winter in Berlin

Early winter calm



Salzburg IV | Wolfgangsee

We made our usual stop at the Wolfgangsee, on the way to Bad Ischl and Halstatt and took a good long walk around. Things I want to remember:
  • I was feeling sick on the drive there, but a quick stop and sauntering around the lake fixed me right up
  • This was the last trip these shoes ever took, as I got some new ones when we arrived back in Berlin
    • They were with me for 4 years, and were my first pair of shoes purchased with the sole purpose of running around Europe (which they did)
  • The waters were crystal clear
  • Mountains loomed
  • They had some cool lotus seating 
  • Many a dog bathing
  • Cow friends grazing and mooing away